Today we are sewing the hems and pockets on our Morningside shirts and dresses.
You can find all the earlier tutorials at the end of this post, including the last tutorial where we sewed the collar.
And there is a giveaway at the end of the Sew Along! All the details are at the end of this post.
Ok, let’s go!
Hemming your garment
Because of the beautiful curved hem of this Morningside Dress an Shirt, we are taking a slightly unconventional approcah and hemming the bottom of the garment before we have sewn the side seams.
Stitch a line of basting stitches 1.5cm (5 /8”) from the hem edge of both the front and back shirt or dress pieces.
Note that the seam allowance is more than the standard 1cm here!
Fold edge up so that it just meets stitch line, pressing as you do so to ‘shrink’ fabric into the curve. Go slow here and the steam from your iron will help you to manipulate the fabric so that it sits nicely in the curve.
Fold up again, so that the stitch line is on the bottom of the fold. Press the seam so that it sits nicely along the curve and pin in place.
Remember to adjust your stitch length to a standard 2-2.5 instead of the basting length of around 4. Edge stitch approximately 3mm in from the folded edge and press.
FOR SHIRT STYLES ONLY: With right sides together, pin the side seams together and stitch at the standard 1cm seam allowance.
Finish seams together and press them toward the back.
Pop a couple of hand stitches in to secure the side seam to the hem line.
If you’re sewing the shirt – that’s it, you’re done for today! The next step is the last one to finish your shirt – the sleeves.
Sewing your pockets
The pockets are only in for the Morningside Dress. But if you want to skip them or add patch pockets instead you could do that too!
For those of you that want to stick with the design – let’s make some pockets!
If you haven’t already, mark the pocket stitch lines on the right side of the front of dress.
I mark the notches on the side seam and then use a pin to mark the corners through the pattern piece. Garba ruler and a fabric pen or chalk and join the dots.
Finish three edges of each of individual the pocket pieces in your preferred method. I serged mine but you could use a zigzag or overcast stitch if you like. Leave the straight attachment edge unfinished – I marked min with chalk so it was easy to distinguish as I serged.
Align the side seams of the front and back of the dress and place the pocket pieces inline with the notches, right sides together. Check that the pockets on the back and front pieces align as they will be sewn together in a following step. Pin in place.
Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance between the notches.
Now is the best time to finish the side seams of the dress. Accessing them will be tricky later.
If you are using a serger to finish your edges – here’s a tip I picked up from a recent Love to Sew podcast episode: the two grooves infront of the little window in the serger foot mark where your serger needle will sew into your fabric. So, as long as your seam is aligned with the outside of the grooves or the window, you won’t sew over your seam!
Press the pockets open so that the dress and pockets have right sides facing up. Ensure that the seam allowance of the dress is laying flat with no folds.
Understitch close to the seam to keep the pocket bag sitting nicely inside the dress.
With right sides together and pockets laying away from the garment, carefully match sides seams and pocket edges and pin together.
Sew side seams of dress, pivoting and sewing around the pocket edges when you come to them.
Return to the pocket bag and stitch up another 5cm (2”) from the bottom of the pocket mouth (to prevent things from falling out of your pocket).
Press seam allownce toward the front.
Press the pockets toward the front dress and check that they align with your previously marked stitch lines. Pin in place.
Top stitch to the dress front, using the stitch lines as a guide.
(Alternatively you can leave the pockets unstitced if you don’t like the top stitched look.)
For added strength, add a bartack at each pocket opening. Use a satin stitch or a narrow zigzag.
Press pockets and blind stitch the side seam to the hem line at the bottom of the dress.
Congratulations!! You have completed your hem and pockets!
Drop me a line in the comments below or on Instagram or Facebook with any questions or suggestions you have.
Tomorrow is the last step in the sew along. We will sew the sleeves on to complete our garments!
Dont forget the GIVEAWAY!
Not only will you have a brand new garment the end of the week – you could be in with a chance to win a pattern of your choice from French Navy!
Sarah, is generously contriubting two PDF patterns that will go to two separate winners at the end of the sew along!
To enter all you have to do is:
1. Follow me @indybindyfabrics
2. Follow Sarah @frenchnavynow_
3. Comment on my Instagram post announcing the giveaway and let us know you’re taking part in the sew along
4. By Thursday 3 October 7pm (Tokyo time), tag both of us in the caption of a post of your Morningside dress or shirt pants (complete or in process!) The more posts you tag us in the more entries you get!
5. Be sure to include the hashtags #sewitwithindybindy and either #morningsidedress or#morningsideshirt so we can keep track of all the entries and see your gorgeous makes!!
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See the other posts related to the Morningside Dress and Shirt Sew Along:
- Find your size
- Select your fabric
- Print and Cut your pattern
- Sew the Placket (part 1)
- Sew the Placket (part 2)
- The yoke
- Attach the collar