Trendschnitt No34 Top with Spaghetti Straps – Pattern Instructions English Translation
Interfacing or edge tape
1. For the top, copy the pattern pieces in the appropriate size and draw the seam allowances directly on the pattern. Seam allowances are already included in the PDF digitise downloadable pattern. Seam allowances are as follows:
- 2cm unless otherwise noted
- Strap width 3cm
- Hem 4cm
Lay your fabric flat. Align your pattern pieces with the fabric grainline and cut them out with a rotary knife. Alternatively, the top can be cut on an angle in a striped fabric, so that the stripes then meet in the front and back center at a 45° angle.
2. Transfer all outer marks with a small 5mm notch. Mark the corners and end point of the dart, as well as the corners of the pattern pieces with a tailor’s tack. Thread a hand sewing needle with double thread and pull through the pattern piece and both layers of fabric twice. Leave Long tails. Remove the pattern, pull the fabric pieces apart and cut the threads in the middle, leaving thread markers on both pieces (see more on how here**).
3. Using 1cm wide edge tape, secure the neckline, the armhole to the notch and the edges of the triangular side panel (see pics 5, 6 and 7). Also secure the side and end of the slit on the side seam with edge tape (see pic 8).
4. Fold over and press the short edge of the triangular side panel by 1cm. Fold over and press again. Stitch along the edge.
5. Trim the protruding corners of the seam allowance with a rotary blade.
6. Pin and stitch the breast darts. If necessary, you can Mark the stitch line with chalk before you sew.
7. Press the bust darts towards the top.
8. Pin and stitch the side seams exactly to the notch marking the beginning of the slit. Baste stitch the slit together using the longest stitch length on your machine, without stay stitching.
9. Next insert the triangular side panel. First, press the side seam apart.
10. Right sides together, stitch the side panel onto one side of the front piece, to exactly the side seam end point. (Use the tailor’s tacks you made earlier to mark the corners of the seam allowance to align it with the end of the side seam and the notch on the armhole.) Be careful not to catch the seam allowance as you sew (fold the seam allowance to the other side to keep it out of the way).
11. (Pull the side panel to the wrong side and align it, right sides together, with the armhole notch.) Stitch the remaining side of the side panel to the back piece, exactly to the side seam end point. Be careful not to catch the seam allowance as you sew (fold the seam allowance to the other side to keep it out of the way).
12. Trim the tip of the slide panel to 2cm when adding the lap to the seam. Starting about 2cm before the end of the side panel, trim the seam allowance that lies under the side panel to 8mm. Be careful not to cut away too much.
13. Fold the end of the side panel under and press. Press the seam allowances of the edges of the side panel so they wrap around the previously cut edges of the seam allowances underneath and the edges rest on the seam. Also fold and press the (side seams and) the neckline at a width of 1cm, then fold over and press again.
14. (Open up the seam allowance of the) top corners of the neckline and trim straight across so that there is just 1cm seam allowance.
15. Press the refolded corner and secure with a pin.
16. Overlock one long edge of the spaghetti straps. Fold and and press this overlocked edge. (Note: instead of steps 16 – 19, I prefer to fold the spaghetti strap in half and press, then fold the edges into the pressed line to encase the raw edges, press and top stitch on both sides.)
17. Fold over again and press so that it is no longer visible.
18. Trim the non-overlocked seam allowance so that it is slightly narrower than the overlocked edge and it can be folded under the overlocked edge.
19. Stitch the strap on both sides at 1mm.
20. Mark the strap to the correct length with a pin, then attach it to the front piece. For the time being, only mark your desired length On the other end of the strap, do not attach it to the back piece. Attach this at step 26 after checking the fit (pic 26) so that The length can still be adjusted.
21. Slip the end of the strap under the seam allowance of the corner on the front piece. You may want to shorten the seam allowance. Attach by hand with small stitches.
22. Pin and stitch the center front and back exactly to the notch.
23. Press the front and back seam allowances apart. Fold the seam allowances under so the raw edge rests on the seam.
24. Fold and press the hem by 2cm, and then fold over and press again.
25. Remove the basting stitches at the side slits. Press the slit and hem as follows: first fold and press the hem, then the slit. This means the raw edges of the hem will now be enclosed under the slit seam allowance.
26. Attach the strap to the back section: Try on the top and check the strap length. Stitch the strap by hand as you did with the front (pic 21). Top stitch the seam allowances at the top first and then stitch the remaining edges of the top. Stitch a vertical line from the seam allowance stitch line to the top edge of the corner so the strap sits securely … and now wear with pride!
27. Line drawing: top with spaghetti straps.