Today we are attaching the yoke to our Morningside Dresses and Shirts – bringing the back and front pieces together and you’ll be able to see your garment start to take shape. Yay!
With the last tutorial we completed the placket. You can find all the previous tutorials at the end of this post. It’s the third day of the French Navy Morningside Dress and Shirt Sew Along!!
Find the pattern here, but first get your 25% discount code in this post!!
And, don’t forget, there is a giveaway at the end of the Sew Along! All the details are at the end of this post.
There are two options depending on which style of Morningside you are sewing.
Style A (cuff sleeve) – Pleat back
Mark the stitch lines on the wrong side of the back pattern piece.
I lay the pattern piece over my fabric and used my erasable pen to pierce through the paper and mark the start and end point of the stitch lines. Then use a ruler and connect the dots, ensuring you have a clear line to follow.
Fold the back pattern piece in half at the center back notch and line up the two stitch lines. Baste (stitch using a long stitch length, I used 4 on my machine) to the end of the stitch line.
Open up the pleat, aligning the center back notch with the freshly sewn seam. Press.
Baste within the seam allowance (approx 6mm) to secure the pleat in place. Remove the previously sewn basting stitches.
Right sides together, align one of the yoke pieces with the top edge of the back piece. Pin in place and stitch with a 1cm seam allowance.
Align the right side of your second yoke facing the wrong side of the back pattern piece. The back piece should now be sandwiched between both yokes. Pin it from the side you have just sewn.
Stitch over that same line of stitches.
Before you take your pins out, grade your seams – trim the three seam allowances back so that the lengths are staggered and don’t add bulk between the yokes.
Press the yokes up, away from the bodice.
Align at the shoulders and pin only the yoke on the wrong side of the back piece to the wrong side of the front bodice. The other yoke on the right side of the back piece sould be hanging down separately.
Stitch at the shoulders witha 1cm seam allowance.
With the garment laying flat and the right side facing up, your top yoke or yoke on the right side of the back piece should still be hanging down, unattached.
Tightly roll up both the back and front pieces together toward the shoulder seam.
Bring the top yoke up and over the rolled garment to align it with the shoulder seams of the other yoke. Pin and stitch through all three layers with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance. Take care not to stitch into the rolled garment.
Gently pull the rolled garment body through the neckline.
Press finished yoke.
Style B (flounce sleeve) – Gather back
Align the center notches of your back pattern piece and one of the yokes. You’ll notice the back piece extends beyond the end of the yoke.
Gather the fabric of the back pattern piece so that it aligns with the edges of the yoke. Stitch two parallel lines between to two dots marked Style B. The first line at 5mm and the second at 1cm from the first stitch line.
The pattern instructs you to secure the bobbin threads by windding them around a pin and pull the opposite ends of the thread. I prefer to secure one end of my stitch lines by back stotching or using the ‘fix’ function on my machine. Leave the oppostire ends long and unsecured so you can pull them to gather your fabric.
Once the edges of your back piece match the edges of he yoke – ensure your gathers are evenly spaced. Then secure the end by winding it around a pin.
Pin the yoke to the back bodice right sides together. Place your pins one the back bodice piece where the gathers are.
Stitch together at a 1cm seam allowance.
Align the right side of your second yoke facing the wrong side of the back pattern piece. The back piece should now be sandwiched between both yokes.
I ended up swapping the pins int he photo above to the other side. Pinning from the side you have just sewn makes the next step much easier.
Sew over the stitch line from attaching the first yoke.
Before you take your pins out, grade your seams – trim the three seam allowances back so that the lengths are staggered and don’t add bulk between the yokes.
Press the yokes up, away from the bodice. Remove the visible basting stitches below the gather.
Align and pin the shoulders of only the yoke on the wrong side of the back piece (bottom yoke in the pattern instrcutions) to the wrong side of the front bodice. The other yoke on the right side of the back piece (top yoke) should be hanging down separately.
Stitch at the shoulders witha 1cm seam allowance.
With the garment laying flat and the right side facing up, your top yoke or yoke on the right side of the back piece should still be hanging down, unattached.
Tightly roll up both the back and front pieces together toward the shoulder seam.
Bring the top yoke up and over the rolled garment to align it with the shoulder seams of the other yoke. Pin and stitch through all three layers with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance. Take care not to stitch into the rolled garment.
Gently pull the rolled garment body through the neckline.
Press finished yoke.
And that’s it for part 4!! You are halfway to your finished garment!
Catch me in the comments below or on Instagram of Facebook with and questions or suggestions you have.
Next we will sew the collar!
Happy stitching!
And there’s a GIVEAWAY!
Not only will you have a brand new garment the end of the week – you could be in with a chance to win a pattern of your choice from French Navy!
Sarah, is generously contriubting two PDF patterns that will go to two separate winners at the end of the sew along!
To enter all you have to do is:
1. Follow me @indybindyfabrics
2. Follow Sarah @frenchnavynow_
3. Comment on my Instagram post yesterday announcing the giveaway and let us know you’re taking part in the sew along
4. Tag both of us in the caption of a post of your Morningside dress or shirt pants (complete or in process!) The more posts you tag us in the more entries you get!
5. Be sure to include the hashtags #sewitwithindybindy and either #morningsidedress or#morningsideshirt so we can keep track of all the entries and see your gorgeous makes!!
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See the other posts related to the Morningside Dress and Shirt Sew Along:
- Styling
- Find your size
- Select your fabric
- Print and Cut your pattern
- Sew the Placket (part 1)
- Sew the Placket (part 2)
